Alan Wong’s “Farmers Series” Features Hamakua Springs

June and I went to Alan Wong’s Restaurant on Monday evening, when Chef Alan featured Hamakua Springs Country Farms. We were the third farm in their Farmers Series of special menus. The food was unbelievable – beyond words. We also chatted with the guests and it was a great experience.

Today we received an email from Arizona. This is what it said:

I was in Honolulu last weekend and had the great fortune to dine at Alan Wongs. The server indicated that the produce used in the dishes at Alan Wongs came from your farm. I was so smitten with the food at the restaurant that I purchased the cookbook.

That said, I will be having a dinner party next month at my home and it is my ambition to use recipes from the Alan Wong cookbook. I think the best way of achieving the level of quality that I experienced at the restaurant would be to use the really extraordinary produce that I enjoyed during my meal. I am not sure whether or not you have the ability or the interest in selling and shipping your produce to the mainland but, if you do, I would celebrate the opportunity to order all of the products that I need from your farm and have them shipped to me via overnight for use in my attempt to replicate the wonderful food at Alan Wongs.

Unfortunately, we are unable to ship to the mainland due to quarantine restrictions. We also chatted with a couple who told us that they had just been to Monaco and Paris and that Alan Wong’s Restaurant had the best food by far. June and I could not believe they were talking about the four-course dinner featuring tomatoes that came from our farm.

See the amazing Hamakua Springs Farmers Series menu

Building History

I asked John Cross, an executive of C. Brewer & Co., the sugar cane folks we bought our land from: “How old is that green shack on our property, the one located next to the old airstrip?”

He told me that the shack predated airplanes. In fact, the building was used to support mules that cultivated sugar cane in the old days. So this building is at least 55 years old. And best guess is that it’s been there for longer than 65 years. It was called Duggan’s Shack in the old days. But that’s another story.

A few months ago, we started thinking about what we could do with this old building. Trees and grass were threatening to cover the building completely and the roof had holes.

We didn’t know exactly what we would do with it, but we knew we had do something or we would lose a part of this land’s history.

First we thought about putting up a farm stand. Kimo decided to repair the most obvious problems, like holes in the roof, etc. We really liked the idea of doing a farm stand, since it was located right on the farm, but we worried there might not be enough customers to support the business. While we were thinking about it, Kimo made the necessary repairs and cleared the brush around the building.

About that time, my grandson Kapono and I started to participate in the Kino‘ole Street Farmers Market. We’ve been there for maybe six weeks now, and from that experience we both realized we didn’t think we could get enough customers to come to Duggan’s Shack. It’s off the highway and the area’s population is not large enough. Lose money.

But then the Alan Wong cookout came up and we offered to dig an imu and make kalua pig. Kimo decided to take that the opportunity to kalua enough so each of our employees could take home a container.

And right then we figured out what we can do with Duggan’s Shack in this new age. We will use it for company parties—where we will do an annual kalua, have fun and send everybody home with food. Perfect!

Chapter 3 – Keaukaha Morning

We watched Chef Alan Wong cook something up the other morning at Keaukaha Elementary School in Hilo.

He was there in conjunction with Richard’s Adopt-a-Class program. Chef Alan had adopted the 6th grade, and then asked if he could go speak to them. So when he was in town last week, he did.

The students chanted a Hawaiian welcome to him.

That crew is from PBS. They filmed the whole morning for a Chefs Afield episode they’re doing about Alan Wong, which will air sometime next year.

He is just wonderful with kids. Very down-to-earth, very open, very real. He’s a natural-born teacher and the students really responded. They were amazingly engaged.

He and Richard both spoke to the kids. Chef Alan told them, “If Alan Wong can do it, you can do it.” He told them that he grow up thinking salad dressing came out of a bottle. They, too, can achieve anything, he told them. “You just have to work hard,” he said.

Richard told them that when he was their age they were kind of poor, and they had a picnic table in the kitchen for their dinner table. He said his father would pound on that table and say, “Not ‘no can.’ ‘CAN!” Richard told those kids they could do anything they want.

Chef Alan showed the students how to make mayonnaise and also a li hing mui salad dressing. As he cooked in front of them, he kept pointing out what part of what he was doing had to do with reading, and what was math, and what was science, and made the point that if they wanted to do that kind of job they’d better stay in school.

 

When he started, he asked how many kids hated tomatoes and most raised their hands. By the time he did a taste test with them – they tasted a piece of Brand X tomato, and then a piece of a Hamakua Springs tomato – they were believers. At the end, some of his people walked around with platters of cut-up heirloom tomatoes and the kids were actually lunging for them, trying to get tomatoes to eat.

Afterward, some of the students showed Richard and Chef Alan their kalo (taro) patch.

The principal of the school told me they never get people of such celebrity speaking to, and inspiring, their kids. Richard says that one of the teachers told him, too, that no one comes to Keaukaha Elementary to tell the kids they too can do it. He says the teacher had tears in her eyes when she told him that.

It was really an incredible morning.

Chapter 2 – The Cookout

If the Tomato Recipe Contest was Chapter 1 in our interesting times of this past week, here’s Chapter 2.

You already read about Chef Alan Wong judging at our Tomato Recipe Contest the other day. Now let me tell you about something else he just did in conjunction with the farm.

Chef Alan, who is based on O‘ahu, regularly buys produce for his restaurants from Hamakua Springs as well as a few other farms here on the Hamakua Coast. And every year he flies his staff here – chefs and other staff from his different restaurants – for a couple days.

The purpose of his annual visit? To visit the farms, and the farmers, who produce the fresh, delicious ingredients they work with every day. Chef Alan has a personal connection with the sources of his food, and he wants his chefs and other employees to know where the food comes from too, and who grows it, and how, so they can take that knowledge back with them. So they visit each farm, see how the food grows and get to know the farmers a little.

Then the culmination of their visit is that all his restaurant people and all the farmers gather at Hamakua Springs for an absolutely world-class Alan Wong cookout using ingredients from those local farms. It’s Chef Alan’s unbelievably gracious and generous (and delicious) thank you to the farmers.

This year for the first time there was also an imu. On Monday afternoon Kimo and his good friend Al Jardine prepared the imu, filling it with pig, turkey, beef, taro, sweet potato and more.

Chef Alan put some nontraditional ingredients in the imu, too. Lesley Hill and Michael Crowell, of nearby Wailea Ag Group,
brought big long “trunks” of heart of palm to put into the imu as an
experiment (they were delicious).

Here’s how it looked after they opened the imu the next day and were taking the meat and other foods out. That’s Mrs. Ha there, Richard’s mom. She’s great.

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Here they are, chopping up the cooked meat. That’s Al in the blue shirt and Kimo in the red.

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We all gathered at the farm’s recently reclaimed green shack. We’ll tell you more about that historical building on the edge of Hamakua Springs later – it has a story, too. For now we’ll just say that it was the HQ for food preparation. See all the beautiful old photos of former plantation days? They tell some of the story of what plantation life used to look like.

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So everybody gathered the food from the imu and took it inside, where tables were set up and Chef Alan and staff cooked and set up the long serving table. There were some amazing dishes made with Hawai’i Island Goat Dairy goat cheese and local Hamakua Mushrooms, and Ka’u coffee and Big Island Candies and more.

It is absolutely amazing what Chef Alan can do on a portable gas burner.

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This was a shrimp, olive and tomato concoction. Is your mouth watering?

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The serving line. There was even more food around on the other side, too, that doesn’t show here.

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Richard thanked everyone for being there and talked about why Alan had brought us together, and then Richard’s grandson Kapono said a blessing in Hawaiian and English. And then we ate. And ate.

There was also a PBS crew present, taping the whole thing. They were following Chef Alan around taping a Chefs Afield program, which will air next year. There was a lot going on.

It was really a terrific evening. From the reason we were all there – because Chef Alan has such respect for, and such connections with, his farmer friends, and thanks them with such an incredible feast – to the new connections as restaurant folk and farmers got to know and appreciate each other, talk story and eat and laugh together. It was a fun, delicious, boisterous event where everybody seemed to be enjoy the food, the setting outside under the big tent, talking, the company.

A huge mahalo to Chef Alan and all his employees, who prepared such a tremendous feast and also created such a wonderful, memorable gathering.

Contest Winners Announced Here!

We are very proud to announce that the Grand Prize Winner of our second annual Tomato Recipe contest is:

Lakeisha Germany-Ross, an 11th-grader from Connections School in Hilo!

Note that this was not a kids’ or students’ contest. This was a regular old, anybody-can-enter adult contest, and that made it even better when we learned that our winner was a student from our downtown charter school. We were thrilled to realize that.

Our judges prescreened the entries and chose the top five recipes from each of the three categories, and then on Monday morning culinary students from Hawai‘i Community College prepared those 15 recipes. Their task was to follow the recipe exactly, and it’s a credit to their instructors Chef Allan Okuda and Chef Sandy Barr that they did such an absolutely terrific job. What an impressive job the students did. I know that because we got to sample the dishes after it was all over.

Lakeisha’s dish was called “Cherry Tomato Compote & Budino.” “What is Budino?” wrote Chef Alan Wong, our guest judge, on his score sheet. We will inquire and then let you know, because this inquiring mind wants to know too.

Looking at the recipe, Budino is a mix of cream cheese, mascarpone cheese, eggs, sugar, lemon juice and orange and lemon zest. The mixture is baked, then cooled, inverted and topped with the recipe’s Tomato Compote (ingredients: red and yellow cherry tomatoes, large tomatoes, sugar, lemon [sliced thin with peel], sultana raisins and water). The result is delicious.

 

Chef Alan Wong donated a special prize for the grand winner, and so Lakeisha and a guest will be dining at Alan Wong’s restaurant in Honolulu, with roundtrip airfare provided by Go! Hawai‘i’s Low Fare Airline.

Each category’s first place winner receives $350 and is invited to a personal tour of Hamakua Springs Country Farms. Go! is also providing airline tickets for winners who live on outer airlines to fly over for the tour. Second place winners each receive $300, and third place winners $250.

Congratulations to all our winners! And thanks for all the terrific entries. We’re going to do it again next year at this time, so start thinking about tomato recipes.

Soups & Bisques

1st – Hamakua Double Tomato Bisque
Candy Barnhart, Makawao

2nd – Tomato Basil “Soup” in Parmesan Cups
Alan Ritari, Honolulu

3rd – Rich Tomato Lobster Bisque
Adina Guest, Honolulu

Entrees

1st – Roasted Tomatoes Piperade with Tomato and Spinach Orzo
Alan E. Fujimoto, Hilo

2nd – Roasted Hamakua Tomato Lasagna
Candy Barnhart, Makawao

3rd – Rustic Hamakua Tomato Tart
Misty Inouye, Hilo

Preserves & Condiments

1st – Cherry Tomato Compote & Budino (Also overall Grand Prize Winner)
Lakeisha Germany-Ross (11th grade, Connections School, Hilo)

2nd – Pacific Rim Hamakua Tomato Jam
Al Barnhart, Makawao

3rd – Slow-Roasted Lomi Lomi Salmon
Alan Ritari, Honolulu

Lowering Our Electric Bills

Since the oil shocks of the 1970s, the U.S. mainland has moved away from dependence on foreign oil for its electricity generation. Consequently, electrical generation there is mostly powered by coal, natural gas, hydro power and nuclear. The result is that a kilowatt of electricity on the mainland costs about 8 cents/kilowatt hour.

Though we generate maybe 30 percent of our energy from geothermal and other renewable sources, since contracts used to be based on “oil” costs our electricity rates are now nearly four times higher than on the mainland. This despite the fact that geothermal costs less than half what oil-generated electricity costs.

These days new alternative energy contracts are by competitive bid, so any new form of purchased energy, such as geothermal, would be at lower rates than we pay now.

We need to increase our use of geothermal power here, because overall geothermal is the least expensive of the alternate sources of electrical energy. When electrical costs and water bills rise, it is the poor that first feel the effects. We must figure out how to avoid using foreign oil, because as those prices rise it’s like a giant tax, throwing us into recession. This makes us unable to take care of the most needy.

We need to do something about this and we need to do it quickly, or the least fortunate among us will be hurt very badly.

To Market To Market

The weather was beautiful Saturday morning, slightly breezy, no rain, and it was a nice day at the Kino‘ole Street Farmer’s Market.

Rocky Freitas came by. Since our first annual Hamakua Springs tomato recipe contest last year, when he was a judge, HCC Chancellor Rockne Freitas has been a big fan of heirloom tomatoes. He told me he didn’t eat tomatoes before that. At the Farmer’s Market he’s always first in line and our biggest customer.There was a talk on jatropha this week—its use for biodiesel, and its place as part of the solution to importing oil for transportation. We were told about a company working on cloning a high-yielding jatropha plant that is uniform in stature, so it lends itself to mechanical harvesting. They have plans to grow millions of jatropha plants. The speaker said Kamehameha Schools is planting 2,500 acres of jatropha plants in Ka’u. He said there are 130,000 acres of land on the Big Island suitable for jatropha cultivation.

 

I asked how much farmers would make, and he said that there are many steps along the way where farmers could be compensated. I offered this simple analysis to help him:

If oil is selling for $100 per barrel and there are 42 gallons in a barrel of oil, then a gallon is worth $2.38. There are approximately 8 pounds in a gallon, and therefore each pound of oil is worth 30 cents. If it takes three pounds of jatropha to make one pound of oil, the maximum a farmer can earn for the jatropha is 10 cents per pound. I told him farmers would not farm jatropha for that price.

He said that jatropha likely would not make enough money just as an oil. He said its usage as a byproduct, for plastics, etc., is key. I told him our market is too small to justify a byproduct production plant. I told him that I admired his entrepreneurial spirit and that I was not against his project, but that I just wondered if farmers would be motivated to grow jatropha for biodiesel. I don’t see it.

Last week, David Ikeda gave a class on simple hydroponic lettuce growing. Once planted, no more care is needed. This absolutely works. I can attest to it.

More people are discovering the Kino‘ole Street Farmers Market. We had record sales this week and last. Since we started there, we have tripled our sales.

We’ve been focusing on heirloom tomatoes for the last several weeks and now lots of people are buying and enjoying them. Maybe they will buy them at KTA now, too. And we have found that people are very comfortable with our living lettuce, but it really is about freshness. When the lettuce is fresh and crisp, people buy it. When it is wilty, they don’t. We now know what our job is.

“The Kahuna Not Going Save Us!”

Farming is one of the first industries to see the direct effects of rising oil prices. Fertilizer, pesticides, packaging, irrigation pumping, cooling and transportation costs are all related to oil costs.

Five years ago, when we were planning to diversify our Kea‘au Banana operation, we knew that China was growing and there would consequently be upward pressure on energy costs, so we set up our new cropping systems to prepare for rising energy costs. Oil cost $30 a barrel then. Two years ago we started noticing creeping inflation—our supply costs were rising slowly but steadily. I started reading about energy issues and I realized we were like the proverbial “frog in a pot with the temperature rising,” and that pretty soon we were going to be done. By the beginning of 2007, oil cost was around $60 per barrel.

Last October, I took my annual trip to the Produce Marketing Association trade show, which was in Houston. Coincidentally, the Association for the Study of Peak Oil (ASPO) conference was occurring the following day at the same hotel. I attended. Turns out it was the most important conference I have ever been to. What I know for sure now is that the oil shortage is real. It is happening right now and we need to come to grips with it. It is not about what we wish will happen; it is what will actually happen. It is no longer about us—now it’s about our grandchildren and their children.

I was the only person at the ASPO conference from Hawai‘i and the only one in shorts. By October, oil prices had risen to $80 per barrel. But it was apparent to me that as bleak as the future looks, we in Hawai‘i are very fortunate. First of all, we have sunshine all year long. The sun’s energy helps us grow food and generate electricity—and all year long. And, the biggest deal of all, we have proven geothermal power. Not only to heat houses, as in some places, but to actually generate electricity. I did not have the heart to tell the people I met how fortunate our situation is on the Big Island, let alone that I was going to wear shorts the rest of the winter.

It’s taken nearly three months for the information from this conference to work its way into the mainstream media. In the meantime, at the farm we have been positioning ourselves for a future of oil shortage. Several principles guide us: “The kahuna not going save us.” “Plan for the worst case.” And, most important of all, “Not, ‘no can.’ ‘CAN!’”

We are getting ready to build a hydroelectric plant that will power fifteen 40-foot Matson reefers all day long. This will stabilize our electric bill. We will then convert our farm machinery to electricity wherever possible, using battery-powered forklifts, golf carts, etc. We plan to offer our employees the ability to charge up their plug in hybrid and electric vehicles and a ration of food as an extra benefit of working at Hamakua Springs. And on and on.

We just received our biodiesel kit, which can make biodiesel out of waste vegetable oil from frying tempura. We still remember gas lines, and we want to make sure that our delivery trucks can deliver food on time. We are planning for the worst case scenario. There is no downside to our farm taking this strategic direction.

What about the bigger picture? Can we grow crops for biodiesel and ethanol? Let’s do some quick and dirty calculations. Since there are 42 gallons in a barrel of oil, at $100 per barrel each gallon costs $2.38. There are around eight pounds in a gallon of water—close enough. So, each pound of oil is worth 30 cents. If it takes two pounds of palm nuts to make one pound of oil, the maximum a farmer can expect for farming palm nuts is 15 cents per pound. At three pounds of nuts to make one pound of oil, they’d make 10 cents per pound. So there it is. Farmers aren’t going to farm at those prices. There may be other ways to produce biofuels in a significant scale in the future. Just show us the money.

That leaves electricity as the doable alternative for powering a large part of our transportation and commerce. So, we must seek to lower and stabilize our electricity costs. Besides conservation and changing building codes, we must also start to think of a future of plug in hybrid and electrical cars.

Geothermal energy can produce electricity at less than half the cost of oil and there are other natural sources where the energy source is “free”. That could give us a relative advantage over the mainland, and possibly make us a low-cost, “green” destination for visitors—where we show how maintaining our Hawaiian values in a smart way has made us truly sustainable.

Oil again reached $100 per barrel this week and we must prepare for costs to double and even triple in a few years. We must lower and stabilize our electricity costs by all means. We have the ability to do this. It’s not an option; it’s a necessity. It’s for the sake of our grandchildren’s children.

Not, “no can.” “CAN!”

Slack Key Class

Last night was the second of my slack key guitar lessons with Cyril Pahinui. I still can’t believe it. At the first session we received some papers with basic chords on them and then the rest of the class was a talk-story, one-man jam session. We were the audience.

Cyril would play a song and then talk about the old days with his Pop, Gabby Pahinui, and the people who came over to their house in Waimanalo to jam. They were all there. Atta Isaacs, Sonny Chillingworth, Peter Moon, Kui Lee—they would all drop by. And then he would play another song. Without realizing it, the class was getting a feel for the music.

Cyril said his father, Gabby, never sat down to teach him a chord or show him how to play. He just told Cyril to watch and listen. And he did. Eventually Cyril would get to accompany the guys in the background. He said he would wait and wait for somebody to say: “Okay, boy. You take ‘em.” Then he would play the lead for one turn. That was the highlight for him.

At the start of last night’s class, Cyril said that the earlier class—all 37 students—was able to play two songs when they went home. He handed out sheets of paper with the words to the songs Puamana and Kaulana Kawaihae. He played and sang them once and told us where to write the chord changes. Then we all played it together a few times. In a short time, we had enough of it to go home and be able to get a lot better with practice.

I’m going to take out my guitar now….

Welcome Chant

We were interested to see that when Keaukaha Elementary School students visited ‘Imiloa recently as a result of our Adopt-a-Class program, they did a traditional Hawaiian chant for permission to enter, and then Hoku‘ao Pellegrino responded with a traditional ‘oli komo, or welcome chant.

Hoku‘ao works at ‘Imiloa as Cultural Landscape Curator, caring for more than 50 types of native plants found on the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center’s nine acres.

He graduated from the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo’s Ka Haka ‘Ula O Ke‘elikolani Hawaiian Language Progam last year. Besides his passion for kalo (taro) and other native plants, he considers his role to be sharing and increasing understanding of the Hawaiian language, culture, music and values.

Here is a glimpse of the traditional greeting and welcome between students and Hoku‘ao, who of course represented ‘Imiloa.