Chapter 3 – Keaukaha Morning

We watched Chef Alan Wong cook something up the other morning at Keaukaha Elementary School in Hilo.

He was there in conjunction with Richard’s Adopt-a-Class program. Chef Alan had adopted the 6th grade, and then asked if he could go speak to them. So when he was in town last week, he did.

The students chanted a Hawaiian welcome to him.

That crew is from PBS. They filmed the whole morning for a Chefs Afield episode they’re doing about Alan Wong, which will air sometime next year.

He is just wonderful with kids. Very down-to-earth, very open, very real. He’s a natural-born teacher and the students really responded. They were amazingly engaged.

He and Richard both spoke to the kids. Chef Alan told them, “If Alan Wong can do it, you can do it.” He told them that he grow up thinking salad dressing came out of a bottle. They, too, can achieve anything, he told them. “You just have to work hard,” he said.

Richard told them that when he was their age they were kind of poor, and they had a picnic table in the kitchen for their dinner table. He said his father would pound on that table and say, “Not ‘no can.’ ‘CAN!” Richard told those kids they could do anything they want.

Chef Alan showed the students how to make mayonnaise and also a li hing mui salad dressing. As he cooked in front of them, he kept pointing out what part of what he was doing had to do with reading, and what was math, and what was science, and made the point that if they wanted to do that kind of job they’d better stay in school.

 

When he started, he asked how many kids hated tomatoes and most raised their hands. By the time he did a taste test with them – they tasted a piece of Brand X tomato, and then a piece of a Hamakua Springs tomato – they were believers. At the end, some of his people walked around with platters of cut-up heirloom tomatoes and the kids were actually lunging for them, trying to get tomatoes to eat.

Afterward, some of the students showed Richard and Chef Alan their kalo (taro) patch.

The principal of the school told me they never get people of such celebrity speaking to, and inspiring, their kids. Richard says that one of the teachers told him, too, that no one comes to Keaukaha Elementary to tell the kids they too can do it. He says the teacher had tears in her eyes when she told him that.

It was really an incredible morning.

Chapter 2 – The Cookout

If the Tomato Recipe Contest was Chapter 1 in our interesting times of this past week, here’s Chapter 2.

You already read about Chef Alan Wong judging at our Tomato Recipe Contest the other day. Now let me tell you about something else he just did in conjunction with the farm.

Chef Alan, who is based on O‘ahu, regularly buys produce for his restaurants from Hamakua Springs as well as a few other farms here on the Hamakua Coast. And every year he flies his staff here – chefs and other staff from his different restaurants – for a couple days.

The purpose of his annual visit? To visit the farms, and the farmers, who produce the fresh, delicious ingredients they work with every day. Chef Alan has a personal connection with the sources of his food, and he wants his chefs and other employees to know where the food comes from too, and who grows it, and how, so they can take that knowledge back with them. So they visit each farm, see how the food grows and get to know the farmers a little.

Then the culmination of their visit is that all his restaurant people and all the farmers gather at Hamakua Springs for an absolutely world-class Alan Wong cookout using ingredients from those local farms. It’s Chef Alan’s unbelievably gracious and generous (and delicious) thank you to the farmers.

This year for the first time there was also an imu. On Monday afternoon Kimo and his good friend Al Jardine prepared the imu, filling it with pig, turkey, beef, taro, sweet potato and more.

Chef Alan put some nontraditional ingredients in the imu, too. Lesley Hill and Michael Crowell, of nearby Wailea Ag Group,
brought big long “trunks” of heart of palm to put into the imu as an
experiment (they were delicious).

Here’s how it looked after they opened the imu the next day and were taking the meat and other foods out. That’s Mrs. Ha there, Richard’s mom. She’s great.

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Here they are, chopping up the cooked meat. That’s Al in the blue shirt and Kimo in the red.

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We all gathered at the farm’s recently reclaimed green shack. We’ll tell you more about that historical building on the edge of Hamakua Springs later – it has a story, too. For now we’ll just say that it was the HQ for food preparation. See all the beautiful old photos of former plantation days? They tell some of the story of what plantation life used to look like.

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So everybody gathered the food from the imu and took it inside, where tables were set up and Chef Alan and staff cooked and set up the long serving table. There were some amazing dishes made with Hawai’i Island Goat Dairy goat cheese and local Hamakua Mushrooms, and Ka’u coffee and Big Island Candies and more.

It is absolutely amazing what Chef Alan can do on a portable gas burner.

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This was a shrimp, olive and tomato concoction. Is your mouth watering?

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The serving line. There was even more food around on the other side, too, that doesn’t show here.

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Richard thanked everyone for being there and talked about why Alan had brought us together, and then Richard’s grandson Kapono said a blessing in Hawaiian and English. And then we ate. And ate.

There was also a PBS crew present, taping the whole thing. They were following Chef Alan around taping a Chefs Afield program, which will air next year. There was a lot going on.

It was really a terrific evening. From the reason we were all there – because Chef Alan has such respect for, and such connections with, his farmer friends, and thanks them with such an incredible feast – to the new connections as restaurant folk and farmers got to know and appreciate each other, talk story and eat and laugh together. It was a fun, delicious, boisterous event where everybody seemed to be enjoy the food, the setting outside under the big tent, talking, the company.

A huge mahalo to Chef Alan and all his employees, who prepared such a tremendous feast and also created such a wonderful, memorable gathering.

Contest Winners Announced Here!

We are very proud to announce that the Grand Prize Winner of our second annual Tomato Recipe contest is:

Lakeisha Germany-Ross, an 11th-grader from Connections School in Hilo!

Note that this was not a kids’ or students’ contest. This was a regular old, anybody-can-enter adult contest, and that made it even better when we learned that our winner was a student from our downtown charter school. We were thrilled to realize that.

Our judges prescreened the entries and chose the top five recipes from each of the three categories, and then on Monday morning culinary students from Hawai‘i Community College prepared those 15 recipes. Their task was to follow the recipe exactly, and it’s a credit to their instructors Chef Allan Okuda and Chef Sandy Barr that they did such an absolutely terrific job. What an impressive job the students did. I know that because we got to sample the dishes after it was all over.

Lakeisha’s dish was called “Cherry Tomato Compote & Budino.” “What is Budino?” wrote Chef Alan Wong, our guest judge, on his score sheet. We will inquire and then let you know, because this inquiring mind wants to know too.

Looking at the recipe, Budino is a mix of cream cheese, mascarpone cheese, eggs, sugar, lemon juice and orange and lemon zest. The mixture is baked, then cooled, inverted and topped with the recipe’s Tomato Compote (ingredients: red and yellow cherry tomatoes, large tomatoes, sugar, lemon [sliced thin with peel], sultana raisins and water). The result is delicious.

 

Chef Alan Wong donated a special prize for the grand winner, and so Lakeisha and a guest will be dining at Alan Wong’s restaurant in Honolulu, with roundtrip airfare provided by Go! Hawai‘i’s Low Fare Airline.

Each category’s first place winner receives $350 and is invited to a personal tour of Hamakua Springs Country Farms. Go! is also providing airline tickets for winners who live on outer airlines to fly over for the tour. Second place winners each receive $300, and third place winners $250.

Congratulations to all our winners! And thanks for all the terrific entries. We’re going to do it again next year at this time, so start thinking about tomato recipes.

Soups & Bisques

1st – Hamakua Double Tomato Bisque
Candy Barnhart, Makawao

2nd – Tomato Basil “Soup” in Parmesan Cups
Alan Ritari, Honolulu

3rd – Rich Tomato Lobster Bisque
Adina Guest, Honolulu

Entrees

1st – Roasted Tomatoes Piperade with Tomato and Spinach Orzo
Alan E. Fujimoto, Hilo

2nd – Roasted Hamakua Tomato Lasagna
Candy Barnhart, Makawao

3rd – Rustic Hamakua Tomato Tart
Misty Inouye, Hilo

Preserves & Condiments

1st – Cherry Tomato Compote & Budino (Also overall Grand Prize Winner)
Lakeisha Germany-Ross (11th grade, Connections School, Hilo)

2nd – Pacific Rim Hamakua Tomato Jam
Al Barnhart, Makawao

3rd – Slow-Roasted Lomi Lomi Salmon
Alan Ritari, Honolulu

Lowering Our Electric Bills

Since the oil shocks of the 1970s, the U.S. mainland has moved away from dependence on foreign oil for its electricity generation. Consequently, electrical generation there is mostly powered by coal, natural gas, hydro power and nuclear. The result is that a kilowatt of electricity on the mainland costs about 8 cents/kilowatt hour.

Though we generate maybe 30 percent of our energy from geothermal and other renewable sources, since contracts used to be based on “oil” costs our electricity rates are now nearly four times higher than on the mainland. This despite the fact that geothermal costs less than half what oil-generated electricity costs.

These days new alternative energy contracts are by competitive bid, so any new form of purchased energy, such as geothermal, would be at lower rates than we pay now.

We need to increase our use of geothermal power here, because overall geothermal is the least expensive of the alternate sources of electrical energy. When electrical costs and water bills rise, it is the poor that first feel the effects. We must figure out how to avoid using foreign oil, because as those prices rise it’s like a giant tax, throwing us into recession. This makes us unable to take care of the most needy.

We need to do something about this and we need to do it quickly, or the least fortunate among us will be hurt very badly.

To Market To Market

The weather was beautiful Saturday morning, slightly breezy, no rain, and it was a nice day at the Kino‘ole Street Farmer’s Market.

Rocky Freitas came by. Since our first annual Hamakua Springs tomato recipe contest last year, when he was a judge, HCC Chancellor Rockne Freitas has been a big fan of heirloom tomatoes. He told me he didn’t eat tomatoes before that. At the Farmer’s Market he’s always first in line and our biggest customer.There was a talk on jatropha this week—its use for biodiesel, and its place as part of the solution to importing oil for transportation. We were told about a company working on cloning a high-yielding jatropha plant that is uniform in stature, so it lends itself to mechanical harvesting. They have plans to grow millions of jatropha plants. The speaker said Kamehameha Schools is planting 2,500 acres of jatropha plants in Ka’u. He said there are 130,000 acres of land on the Big Island suitable for jatropha cultivation.

 

I asked how much farmers would make, and he said that there are many steps along the way where farmers could be compensated. I offered this simple analysis to help him:

If oil is selling for $100 per barrel and there are 42 gallons in a barrel of oil, then a gallon is worth $2.38. There are approximately 8 pounds in a gallon, and therefore each pound of oil is worth 30 cents. If it takes three pounds of jatropha to make one pound of oil, the maximum a farmer can earn for the jatropha is 10 cents per pound. I told him farmers would not farm jatropha for that price.

He said that jatropha likely would not make enough money just as an oil. He said its usage as a byproduct, for plastics, etc., is key. I told him our market is too small to justify a byproduct production plant. I told him that I admired his entrepreneurial spirit and that I was not against his project, but that I just wondered if farmers would be motivated to grow jatropha for biodiesel. I don’t see it.

Last week, David Ikeda gave a class on simple hydroponic lettuce growing. Once planted, no more care is needed. This absolutely works. I can attest to it.

More people are discovering the Kino‘ole Street Farmers Market. We had record sales this week and last. Since we started there, we have tripled our sales.

We’ve been focusing on heirloom tomatoes for the last several weeks and now lots of people are buying and enjoying them. Maybe they will buy them at KTA now, too. And we have found that people are very comfortable with our living lettuce, but it really is about freshness. When the lettuce is fresh and crisp, people buy it. When it is wilty, they don’t. We now know what our job is.

“The Kahuna Not Going Save Us!”

Farming is one of the first industries to see the direct effects of rising oil prices. Fertilizer, pesticides, packaging, irrigation pumping, cooling and transportation costs are all related to oil costs.

Five years ago, when we were planning to diversify our Kea‘au Banana operation, we knew that China was growing and there would consequently be upward pressure on energy costs, so we set up our new cropping systems to prepare for rising energy costs. Oil cost $30 a barrel then. Two years ago we started noticing creeping inflation—our supply costs were rising slowly but steadily. I started reading about energy issues and I realized we were like the proverbial “frog in a pot with the temperature rising,” and that pretty soon we were going to be done. By the beginning of 2007, oil cost was around $60 per barrel.

Last October, I took my annual trip to the Produce Marketing Association trade show, which was in Houston. Coincidentally, the Association for the Study of Peak Oil (ASPO) conference was occurring the following day at the same hotel. I attended. Turns out it was the most important conference I have ever been to. What I know for sure now is that the oil shortage is real. It is happening right now and we need to come to grips with it. It is not about what we wish will happen; it is what will actually happen. It is no longer about us—now it’s about our grandchildren and their children.

I was the only person at the ASPO conference from Hawai‘i and the only one in shorts. By October, oil prices had risen to $80 per barrel. But it was apparent to me that as bleak as the future looks, we in Hawai‘i are very fortunate. First of all, we have sunshine all year long. The sun’s energy helps us grow food and generate electricity—and all year long. And, the biggest deal of all, we have proven geothermal power. Not only to heat houses, as in some places, but to actually generate electricity. I did not have the heart to tell the people I met how fortunate our situation is on the Big Island, let alone that I was going to wear shorts the rest of the winter.

It’s taken nearly three months for the information from this conference to work its way into the mainstream media. In the meantime, at the farm we have been positioning ourselves for a future of oil shortage. Several principles guide us: “The kahuna not going save us.” “Plan for the worst case.” And, most important of all, “Not, ‘no can.’ ‘CAN!’”

We are getting ready to build a hydroelectric plant that will power fifteen 40-foot Matson reefers all day long. This will stabilize our electric bill. We will then convert our farm machinery to electricity wherever possible, using battery-powered forklifts, golf carts, etc. We plan to offer our employees the ability to charge up their plug in hybrid and electric vehicles and a ration of food as an extra benefit of working at Hamakua Springs. And on and on.

We just received our biodiesel kit, which can make biodiesel out of waste vegetable oil from frying tempura. We still remember gas lines, and we want to make sure that our delivery trucks can deliver food on time. We are planning for the worst case scenario. There is no downside to our farm taking this strategic direction.

What about the bigger picture? Can we grow crops for biodiesel and ethanol? Let’s do some quick and dirty calculations. Since there are 42 gallons in a barrel of oil, at $100 per barrel each gallon costs $2.38. There are around eight pounds in a gallon of water—close enough. So, each pound of oil is worth 30 cents. If it takes two pounds of palm nuts to make one pound of oil, the maximum a farmer can expect for farming palm nuts is 15 cents per pound. At three pounds of nuts to make one pound of oil, they’d make 10 cents per pound. So there it is. Farmers aren’t going to farm at those prices. There may be other ways to produce biofuels in a significant scale in the future. Just show us the money.

That leaves electricity as the doable alternative for powering a large part of our transportation and commerce. So, we must seek to lower and stabilize our electricity costs. Besides conservation and changing building codes, we must also start to think of a future of plug in hybrid and electrical cars.

Geothermal energy can produce electricity at less than half the cost of oil and there are other natural sources where the energy source is “free”. That could give us a relative advantage over the mainland, and possibly make us a low-cost, “green” destination for visitors—where we show how maintaining our Hawaiian values in a smart way has made us truly sustainable.

Oil again reached $100 per barrel this week and we must prepare for costs to double and even triple in a few years. We must lower and stabilize our electricity costs by all means. We have the ability to do this. It’s not an option; it’s a necessity. It’s for the sake of our grandchildren’s children.

Not, “no can.” “CAN!”

Slack Key Class

Last night was the second of my slack key guitar lessons with Cyril Pahinui. I still can’t believe it. At the first session we received some papers with basic chords on them and then the rest of the class was a talk-story, one-man jam session. We were the audience.

Cyril would play a song and then talk about the old days with his Pop, Gabby Pahinui, and the people who came over to their house in Waimanalo to jam. They were all there. Atta Isaacs, Sonny Chillingworth, Peter Moon, Kui Lee—they would all drop by. And then he would play another song. Without realizing it, the class was getting a feel for the music.

Cyril said his father, Gabby, never sat down to teach him a chord or show him how to play. He just told Cyril to watch and listen. And he did. Eventually Cyril would get to accompany the guys in the background. He said he would wait and wait for somebody to say: “Okay, boy. You take ‘em.” Then he would play the lead for one turn. That was the highlight for him.

At the start of last night’s class, Cyril said that the earlier class—all 37 students—was able to play two songs when they went home. He handed out sheets of paper with the words to the songs Puamana and Kaulana Kawaihae. He played and sang them once and told us where to write the chord changes. Then we all played it together a few times. In a short time, we had enough of it to go home and be able to get a lot better with practice.

I’m going to take out my guitar now….

Welcome Chant

We were interested to see that when Keaukaha Elementary School students visited ‘Imiloa recently as a result of our Adopt-a-Class program, they did a traditional Hawaiian chant for permission to enter, and then Hoku‘ao Pellegrino responded with a traditional ‘oli komo, or welcome chant.

Hoku‘ao works at ‘Imiloa as Cultural Landscape Curator, caring for more than 50 types of native plants found on the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center’s nine acres.

He graduated from the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo’s Ka Haka ‘Ula O Ke‘elikolani Hawaiian Language Progam last year. Besides his passion for kalo (taro) and other native plants, he considers his role to be sharing and increasing understanding of the Hawaiian language, culture, music and values.

Here is a glimpse of the traditional greeting and welcome between students and Hoku‘ao, who of course represented ‘Imiloa.

Snow on Mauna Kea, February 2008

Richard’s grandson Kapono Pa writes:

On Sunday, my family (my mom Tracy, dad Kimo, and sister Kimberly and I) went up to Mauna Kea to play in the snow.

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photo by Kapono Pa

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Kimo, Kimberly, Tracy    (photo by Kapono Pa)

It was a nice and warm 34 degrees at the summit, with a wind chill of a face-stinging 10-15 degrees, with some winds blowing at 30 mph or more. The snow was set on thick—in some spots there was two to three feet of snow, most of which was almost ice because it has been up on the mountain for a couple weeks now. There was snow down to about 11,000 feet.

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photo by Kapono Pa

There were tons of people snowboarding and skiing. Each group of people took turns picking each other up at the bottom of the hill and driving them up to the top to drop them off and start all over again. My dad (Kimo) had fun running down the small hills on his boogie-board that he just bought from Wal-Mart that morning. He wiped-out big time and ate some massive snow (but I think we shall keep that picture to ourselves).

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Kimo    (photo by Kapono Pa)

Sunglasses were a must because it was bright and sunny and the snow was pure white. We came back with some sunburn even though we only spent about two hours up on the mountain (I guess time seems to move slower in thin air). I personally had tons of fun, and I think we all did seeing as we all “boarded” on the snow for the first time ever.

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Kapono

At the end, we spent about 15 minutes shoveling snow into the back of Dad’s truck to bring back and show everyone.

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Kapono, Kimberly, Tracy and Kimo Pa    (Snowman photos by Richard Ha)

The pictures of us making snow “things” were taken in the driveway of my great-grandparents (Joseph and Florinda Perreira—June’s parents).

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Kimberly and June made a snowman, for which Florinda provided the hat, and I made a bear and a fish. We all used rocks for eyes.

(Editor’s note: The following email exchange took place:

Leslie to Richard: “Richard. Are you shirtless in that picture with the snowmen?”
Richard to Leslie: “Yes. This is Hawai’i.”)

All the leftover snow in Dad’s truck melted overnight and was gone by the next morning. It was a great experience and I got the awesome pictures that I wanted. Had a blast.

In Support of Farmers

I testified in person last week at the Hawai‘i State Legislature in favor of Senate Bill 2467 and House Bill 2261. This bill, which I helped draft, helps address important issues of food security, high oil prices and economic development.

Hawai‘i has two very serious issues right now. The first is food security—we are very vulnerable out here in the middle of the ocean and must ensure we can produce enough food for our residents.

The second is our need to get off oil, which we depend upon both for transportation and for generating electricity. Prior to the Association for the Study of Peak Oil (ASPO) conference in Houston four months ago, little was reported in the press about the consequences of what are tightening oil supplies. (I was the only Hawai‘i resident to attend that conference; the next one is in Sacramento in September). Since the conference, we are increasingly hearing in the media about oil demand exceeding supply.

The answer to this problem is to generate as much electricity as possible from natural sources here in Hawai‘i, and use as much electricity as possible (vs. oil) for transportation.

Here is my testimony in support of SB2467 and HB2261:

Aloha Chairpersons and fellow representatives:

I am in favor of HB 2261—the Hawai‘i Farm Renewable Sustainable Energy Loan Program. This is a bill that accomplishes three things:

1) It addresses our food security issue by encouraging farmers to farm. If farmers make money, they will farm. This bill will help farmers save money by using alternate energy sources as oil costs rise. If the utilities will buy power from farmers in the future, farmers will make money. Further, farmers can qualify for one hundred percent state income tax credits for alternate energy projects.

2) It helps to wean us from dependence on foreign oil. When farmers produce power, that will help us get off foreign oil.

3) It addresses an economic issue of balance of payments. A dollar saved from having to buy foreign oil is a dollar that can revolve in our local economy.

This bill is necessary because energy projects cost money and in many cases, the savings is in the future. In order for farmers starting energy projects to obtain a positive cash flow sooner rather than later, they must have a lower loan payback for doing energy products as compared to present electricity/power costs. A low down payment and long payback period helps to accomplish this.

Alternate energy projects qualify for one hundred percent state income tax benefits though Act 122. While it is true that investors in these projects can qualify for favorable tax treatment, investors require a return on their investment. If investors finance farmers’ alternate energy projects, the project’s value goes to the investors, not the farmers. If that’s the case, farmers will not waste their time starting alternate energy projects in the first place. That is the main reason this bill is so effective.

Aloha,
Richard Ha
President,
Hamakua Springs Country Farms

The reason this bill is so significant is because it positions farmers to sell electricity to the grid. Instead of sending all our money to foreign countries, why not have our own people generating electricity? It keeps our money circulating in our own economy. And it also aids in our efforts to make ourselves food secure—because if farmers can make money, by selling electricity along with their food products, farmers will farm.

I believe this bill will pass “as is,” along with an amendment that expands its scope and does not detract from the original intent. Because it will be incorporated into an existing Department of Agriculture loan program, there will no need to go through the Attorney General’s office for scrutiny. And since there is no request for funding at the present time, it also will not need to go through the House Finance committee or the Senate Ways and Means committee.

On another, related, topic, we are also working with the U.S. Department of Energy to develop alternate energy projects here on the Big Island.

Things are starting to move! I’ll write about those efforts in another post.

What I can tell you now is that it is all very encouraging.