Category Archives: Lettuce

Conversations With My Mom

Richard Ha writes:

I took Mom to Hamakua Springs to get a few tilapia for her dinner.

Mom1

While we were there, we looked at some of the things we have going on.

Corn field

Corn
 
Corn field
Hamakua Springs bananas
 
Corn field
Hydroponic lettuce, with special procedures to control slugs
 

Corn field

Sweet potatoes

Corn field

Zucchini

One thing that strikes me is how much water we have running through our 600-acre farm. We must maximize its usage.

Reservoir

Water Supply will build a new reservoir adjacent to this one and bring electricity right through the farm to the new well, which is right behind this reservoir

I really want to raise tilapia when the price of oil goes so high that bringing it in from Asia is prohibitive.

Tilapia for mom

Tilapia for Mom. These are the small ones, to fry crispy.

And, while doing that, we want to demonstrate how Hawaiians were self-sufficient in ancient days.

Then while we are at it, we want to reforest the streams with ‘ohi‘a, koa, bamboo, kukui, hapu‘u, etc.

  1. Also, how about aquaponics with tilapia and taro?
  2. How about a certified kitchen to make lomi salmon, poi and other things where we and other farmers can add value?
  3. What about classes for at-risk students?
  4. Maybe a permanent imu.
  5. Events set around food?
  6. How about showing how food was produced then and now – ancient and modern?

Mom and I always have these kinds of conversations. I like it.

Safe Salad

An article in yesterday’s Honolulu Advertiser caught my eye. The headline was Produce We Eat May Not Be Safer. Its subheading: “Government has failed to increase inspections after deadly outbreak.”

Coincidentally, we just had our Food Safety inspection two weeks ago by Craig Bowden of Davis Fresh. We passed the inspection and Craig told us he is pleased that we continue to show constant improvement. Nearly five years ago we were one of the first producers in the state to voluntarily participate in an independent, third-party Food Safety Certification program.

A few months back, when CNN ran a special about the deadly E. coli outbreak in spinach, we wrote a post explaining what we do to prevent disease at Hamakua Springs. We planned our production systems from the beginning to prevent these problems from happening. We feel confident that we are on the right track.

Leafy greens are especially vulnerable to disease because, unlike with some other vegetables, people actually eat the leaves. The plant grows low to the ground and is vulnerable to contamination from rain splattering off contaminated soil, flooding, or improperly treated compost. It is also vulnerable to contaminated spray water, employee sanitation problems, sickness, rodents and more.

Large bagged salad processors “mow” the lettuce, catch leaves and move them along conveyors in the packing house, where the product tumbles through a sanitation process—but there is no way to decontaminate leafy green in the packing house once they’ve been contaminated in the field. Worse, the packing house process actually serves to mix and spread the contamination. So it is most important to have safe field operations.

At Hamakua Springs, our hydroponic operations always begin with chlorine-treated water. After we treat the water, we measure it for E. coli colony forming units (CFU), and we have always found it to be zero.

After that we plant. The plants get their nutrients from this treated water. Since we grow our produce hydroponically (without soil) in covered houses, there is no risk from rain splattering the plants or contaminated spray water. We address other possible contamination issues as a part of our food safety program. We are very comfortable with our safety methods and you can be, too.

Although we hope we don’t hear about any more E. coli-contaminated lettuce on the Mainland, we will not be surprised if it happens again.

Sidewalk Sale

June and I participated in a sidewalk sale at KTA this past Saturday, and it was awesome. From 7 a.m. until noon, people did not stop coming. Most came for the summer fruit and yet even though we were not the focus of attention, we sold approximately 200 bunches of green onions, 15 boxes of cucumbers and a lot more.

We are big fans of KTA Superstores. KTA has been instrumental in easing this island’s transition from a sugar plantation economy to what it is today. The company has helped local farmers become economically stable by offering them the opportunity to sell their products under the Mountain Apple Brand label.

As for us, KTA has been willing to work with us on new items, new packaging and generally operating “outside of the box.” It is because of this help that we’ve been able to bring so many new products to market.

We sold our heirloom tomatoes. Heirlooms are generally varieties older than 50 years. When disease resistance, attractiveness and shelf life are primary considerations, heirlooms are not the most desirable. But chefs love them because heirlooms are noted for their good taste. We grow them because we like to eat them.

The Striped German is interesting. If you turn the tomato upside down, you see a red color radiating outward. That two-toned red and yellow color is what you see when the tomato is sliced. It’s very pretty and interesting. This tomato has a taste combination that leans toward sweetness with just a hint of acidity. People who like sweetness in their tomatoes might like this one best.

The Purple Cherokee has a nice balance of sweetness to acid. The seeds don’t tend to fall out and the tomato has a consistent texture throughout.  It is, well, “meaty.”  The description “beefy” comes to mind. I wonder if that’s where the name beefsteak tomato comes from? I like it simple—chilled and sliced with a little Hawaiian salt and ground black pepper. Very nice! People who like a balanced acid to sweetness ratio might choose this as their favorite.

 

In the clamshell containers are our living lettuce. They are called “living lettuce” because the roots are on and they have the ability to breathe oxygen. One of the reasons we like this is because we can ship these using less cooling energy. Also, the lettuce lasts longer than conventionally grown lettuces.

Our green onions are grown hydroponically. Mainland green onions have the tops cut off, but we like to leave the tops on so we can show them off. It’s hard to grow green onions that have green tips, but we do it. We also leave the tips on for food safety reasons—we feel that there is less chance for contamination if we don’t cut off them off.

We have finally learned how to grow crispy, crunchy Japanese cucumbers. It’s interesting to talk to customers as they decide whether to buy or not. As they carry on a conversation, they go through the cucumbers, carefully checking out each one. I think people really touch and feel the cucumber for confirmation that it will be crunchy and crispy. So we know what our job is. It’s more than just slapping on a pretty label.

Also, we don’t like waxed produce. So we don’t do it.

We are really proud of our green onions. But we feel that they are still too thin and leggy. In a couple of weeks we will have them where we want them—green from tip to bottom, a little bit shorter and more stout. They will be stronger looking and flawless, and all without harsh chemicals.

“As if accidentally eating a slug wasn’t bad enough”

Richard Ha writes:

From the May 27th Hawaii Tribune-Herald: “Ingesting a parmarion martensi, a brown slug that can reach about 2 inches in length, can be harmful because the mollusk is a known carrier of a disease-causing parasite, a nematode called angiostrongylus, or rat lungworm, that can cause meningitis, pulmonary disease or gastrointestinal illness.”

There have been reports of people ingesting this small slug on homegrown lettuce and becoming ill.

We first heard about this when it was reported in the newspaper three years ago. It has been found in lower Puna, and in isolated spots in Waimea and Kona.

We are not aware of it being found in Hamakua. But just to be cautious, we do have a first line of defense—we apply slug bait. Also, we feel confident we’d have an easier time spotting the slug, if it did show up, since we do not grow our lettuces in the ground.

We are starting to think of other control strategies in case it reaches our location. We will make a wide, weed-free barrier around our lettuce operation. We are also planning to put down cinder as a barrier around the perimeter.

We take these kinds of stories seriously and try to plan ahead—sooner, rather than later.

On another topic: We’re at 44 percent of goal in our grass roots “adopt-a-class” campaign and have almost covered the whole school for the first semester. But the first graders still need a sponsor, and we still need contributions toward a couple other classes.

No Weak Links Here

On CNN’s Special Investigation Unit this past weekend, they ran a story by Sanjay Gupta called Danger: Poisoned Food.

It talked about the many incidences over the last few years of bagged greens being contaminated with E. coli 0157-H7, some of which resulted in fatalities. The main issues it discussed were:

1. Since 1995, there have been 20 E. coli outbreaks associated with California lettuce.

2. E. coli 0157-H7, the dangerous form, is usually associated with cattle.

3. Once contaminated, the greens cannot be decontaminated.

4. The process which mixes and tumbles greens actually spreads any bacteria that might be present. And chlorine and washing cannot eradicate all bacteria.

5. Control measures on farms are voluntary, not mandatory.

6. The FDA does not inspect farms.

This is nothing new. We knew all this three years ago when we were starting to grow lettuce. I predicted then that there would be more cases of E. coli 0157-H7 contamination of bagged lettuce and greens.

And nothing significant has changed. There will be still more cases of E. coli 0157-H7 contamination. People will probably start to shy away from industrial, assembly-line production of leafy green bagged products.

This is why we chose to grow our vegetables hydroponically. We are able to address the E. coli 1057-H7 issue confidently through hydroponic farming.

The following is our approach to the problem. It is not very complicated. Cattle manure is the main problem, so we have made sure to minimize the ways that cattle manure can affect our operation.

We do not use compost. Incomplete composting is a risk factor.

We treat the water our leafy greens grow in with chlorine at 650 ORP. This means that bacteria are killed on contact before we plant. And because of the way we operate, it is very unlikely that our water can be contaminated by E. coli 0157- H7 after that. Also, only county water is used should we need to top off the raceways.

We only use county water when we spray the leafy greens. Contaminated spray water is a risk factor.

Our plants are protected from rain. This avoids rain splash, which is another risk factor for the spread of E. coli 0157-H7.

We only sell whole heads of lettuce. E. coli 0157-H7 cannot be washed off. And it can spread far and wide when mixed and tumbled in a industrial leafy green bagging system. Selling only whole heads avoids this serious problem.

We only sell what we grow ourselves. The food safety chain is only as strong as its weakest link. We don’t have any weak links.

Nutrients & Ethics

Richard learned something the other day that he called “kind of shocking,” and he’s already taking action.

What he learned is that data collected over the last 50 years by the U.S. Agriculture Department show a decline in the nutritional value of our fruits and vegetables—in some cases, a dramatic change, ranging from a 6 percent decrease in the amount of protein to 38 percent less riboflavin.

“As soon as I read that article,” he said, “it came to me that we don’t normally focus on nutrient levels in our vegetables. So to the extent we can do something about it, we’re going to.”

He added, “We aren’t going to go off the deep end, but we are going to tilt in this direction. If we can get great taste, happy plants and plants that are more nutrient-dense than they were six months ago, we’ll be really happy.”

Charlotte Romo, the farm’s hydroponic crop specialist, agrees with the scientist quoted in the article that the nutrient decreases are likely due to changed agricultural practices. “After WWII, they started using synthesized chemicals out in the fields,” she said, “and based everything on what the plant needs. But they never really looked, I think, at what they were getting as far as the fruit. They try to pump up the plant to grow fast and yield a lot of fruit, but that doesn’t necessarily yield quality fruit.”

“Fifty years ago there were lots of little farms located everywhere,” she said. “Now there are giant farms and they do what’s good for shipping, but not necessarily good for food quality.”

And so, the plan: First, to determine the nutrient levels of the farm’s tomatoes and lettuces right now. Charlotte is sending tomatoes off to the lab on O‘ahu for nutritional analyses on the fruit itself, whereas previously they have only checked the leaf. “I don’t think it’s common practice to do the fruit analysis to check for nutrients,” she said. She explained that normally they do leaf analyses, which tells them what the plant needs—but doesn’t tell them about nutrients found in the fruit, which we actually eat.

They will also see about increasing nutrients in the lettuce, if necessary, for which they already have leaf analyses.

“Increasing nutrients is not something most people talk about, and I don’t know of anything in terms of recommendations along those lines,” Richard said. “I’ve never heard of fertilizing and growing plants for their nutrient component. But it just makes sense to me that the vegetables should have as many nutrients as possible in them. It just makes common sense.”

I asked Richard if it will be a selling point. “I don’t know that it’s going to be something we can advertise,” he said, “and say ours is better than the next. I just know it’s the right thing to do, so we’re going to attempt to do it.”

“It’s like when we decided to become Eco-OK. We were first to be certified Eco-OK. Or when we decided to become Food Safety Certified. That, too, was just the right thing to do.”

[Editor’s note: I had to fight Our Modest Farmer to allow me to include this next part, which he didn’t know about until he previewed this blog post]:

When I talked to Charlotte about this, she acknowledged that these extra fruit analyses and possible increases in what they feed the plants will be extra expenses. Referring to Richard making these decisions merely because it’s the “right thing to do,” she added, “Isn’t it amazing to meet an ethical person? I think we all try to be ethical, but sometimes our pocketbook gets the best of us. Even really nice people that I’ve worked with, they don’t always do the right thing.

“I keep flaunting Richard to all my colleagues back in Tucson,” she said. “I tell them, ‘You won’t believe it—he’s an ethical person! I get to work with an ethical person!’ It’s so refreshing.” —posted by Leslie Lang

A conversation between Richard and Leslie:

Richard: You know, I knew that Charlotte liked working here, but I had no idea she thought that way. But posting what she said makes me a little uncomfortable. I don’t know if I like the idea of putting myself out there as though I am some sort of “ethical person.” I really don’t think of myself that way.

Leslie: Well, you are.

Richard: You know, I have kind of a kolohe past, from when I was a kid! I don’t walk around thinking of myself like that, or like I’m different or better than anybody else.

Leslie: What if we posted what she said, but also had you write a disclaimer stating that in no way do you consider yourself ethical?

Richard: Oh, well, maybe we could do that. Let me think about it. You know, I’m not doing this for any sort of “ethical” reason. I’m doing it because I sort of take a long-term view of things, and as long as it doesn’t destroy our business financially, it just seems like the thing to do.

Leslie: Richard, that’s the definition of “ethical.”

Richard: Well. You know, when I really think about why this label of “ethical” makes me a little uncomfortable, I realized my decisions always come back to our employees. When they go home and tell their families what we’re doing here, what are the reactions going to be?

Leslie: Positive.

Richard: That’s right, and it will make them feel good about their jobs and what they are doing. That’s really my focus. You know, another example of that is that we host young schoolkids at the farm a lot. And when they come, we always have the farm all cleaned up, and when everything’s so clean it really makes everybody feel good. My decisions really all come back to how they make the employees feel.

Leslie: You’re still ethical.

Richard: Maybe my employees are ethical people and that’s what makes me do what I do.

Leslie: Okay.

Go Ahead, Eat a Salad

Richard Ha writes:

Lettuce has been in the news, of course, since some of a mainland grower’s produce was recently recalled due to possible E. coli contamination.

Let me tell you what we do at Hamakua Springs to make sure that doesn’t happen here:

First of all, the E. coli bacteria is primarily associated with cattle operations and contaminated irrigation water, as well as field sanitation. There are no cattle operations that compromise our irrigation water. In addition, we regularly check the water we use for E. coli. We have not once tested positive since we started our hydroponic operations.

We also sanitize the water our plants grow in with chlorine, and we sanitize the beds themselves with chlorine after each crop.

Our vegetable crops are grown indoors. This eliminates the possibility of water splashing contaminated soils onto the lettuce, and means our lettuces are never in danger of contamination by flooding. And soon after harvest the lettuces are placed in cold temperatures, which slow down bacterial action.

We don’t use manures or compost when growing our lettuce; instead, we use sterile media.

Our people are instructed in proper hygiene. Anyone with a communicable illness is not allowed to work with the vegetables. They always wear gloves when handling the lettuce.

So go ahead and eat your Hamakua Springs lettuce. You can make yourself and your family a big, healthy Hamakua Springs salad—Chef’s Select baby lettuce maybe, with slices of crisp, crunchy Japanese cucumber and some Hamakua Sweets tomatoes—and eat it in full confidence that we’re on top of things over here.

Lettuce Reassure You

Richard Ha writes:

It’s no secret that E. coli and spinach have been in the news recently. News stories about the recent spinach recall have been making me think about how Hamakua Springs Country Farms came to be Food Safety Certified, and how we always try to prepare for the future.

More than 15 years ago, when we started to expand our banana operation, we knew that being environmentally friendly was the right thing to do. And so we set out to make sure we operated that way. In 1992, we were the first banana farm in the world to be certified “Eco O.K.” by the Rainforest Alliance, the world’s largest third-party certifying environmental organization.

Next, we were certified as a “sustainable farm” by The Food Alliance, a sustainable certification organization from the Pacific Northwest. Later, our company was one of six finalists for the national Patrick Madden award, a sustainable farming award sponsored by the USDA.

About four years ago we applied to get our banana operation “food safety certified.” We were not required to do this; we just knew it was the right thing to do. To be food safety certified, there were approximately 60 line items to address in each of the growing and processing operations. Each time we are recertified, the requirements are stricter. We have learned from this and become better operators.

When we started our hydroponic tomato operation four years ago, we already knew what critical food safety points needed to be addressed. Most of the line items in being food safety certified for tomatoes were similar to what we already followed for our banana operation. Though we wanted to be sure to address the fact that people eat tomato skins, which the Food Safety certification does cover.

Two years ago, we started planning to grow lettuce and other leafy greens. Because we have experience in food safety issues, we were able to plan and implement a system that specifically addresses growing lettuce, herbs and spinach. Basically, all the food safety issues pertaining to growing tomatoes also apply to growing leafy greens.

But safety is even more critical with lettuces and similar crops. First, because the leaves are eaten. But also because such plants usually grow in soil, and any microbes found in the soil, or in irrigation water, could readily contaminate the plants. Furthermore, once the plants are contaminated, it is difficult, or even impossible, to decontaminate them in the processing operation.

As we planned our leafy green crops, we were very conscious that since 1995 there had been more than 15 cases of E. coli contaminating leafy vegetables in the mainland U.S. Some knowledgeable people we respect feel such contamination likely comes from contaminated water associated with the cattle industry—mostly irrigation water, flooded fields or even just rain splashing contaminated water onto the edible parts of the plants.

We wanted to avoid the risks associated with contaminated water and contaminated soil. That’s why we chose to grow our lettuce and similar crops hydroponically, using sanitized water, sterile growing media and overhead covers that protect against rain splash.

We started two years ago. It was not easy, largely because it was a new system that we had to develop on the fly, and it isn’t the cheapest way to grow crops. But this method of growing gives us the level of comfort we need for our customers and ourselves.

Obviously, we do not much like the idea of being dragged kicking and screaming into the future. We prefer thinking, planning and preparing for the future ahead of time. Which is what we have done with our leafy green crops.

We are relieved to realize that the extreme safety measures we set up from the start will help us avoid situations like the one now plaguing farmers, and consumers, in central California and beyond. And we continue to scan the horizon to see what might be coming up in the future that we need to focus on right now.

Employee Spotlight: Susie White

Richard told me a story about something that happened several months ago, when the hydroponic lettuces were new and he asked Susie White—at the time, she was the Hamakua Springs tomato packing house supervisor—to come see what they were doing with lettuce.

Susie_first1_1“I could tell that she really wanted to get her hands on the lettuces,” he said. “The clincher was when I handed her one. She held it really gently, like it was a baby bird, and I thought to myself, ‘She’s the one.’”

He asked her if she was interested in taking on the lettuce project and she said she couldn’t wait. Susie is now Lettuce Production Supervisor at Hamakua Springs Country Farms.

Susie says that she used to drive by the farm and see the greenhouses. She wondered what was growing in there, and when she saw a job opening she applied.

“I really needed full-time and benefits, and that’s what they were offering. I thought, I don’t want to work on a banana farm. But it turned out to be so much more than I expected. I just love it.”

She was hired to work in the greenhouse, pruning tomatoes. Less than two weeks later she was put in charge of the packing house, becoming the first tomato packing house supervisor. Together, says Richard, they developed the processes they use today.

She says it’s great fun learning about hydroponics and greenhouses. “Plus it’s all new—his greenhouse operation is new and he’s cutting edge. We’re learning as we go. I’ve never been bored since I worked here. Plus it’s close to my house; I live just up the road. And I get to use all my experience.”

Her experience is extensive and fitting. She studied at the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo’s Department of Agriculture, and also used to grow vegetables at home—lettuce, herbs, corn, asparagus and watercress—for restaurants (Rosie’s Boathouse, Harrington’s) where she worked as a bartender.

Before coming to work at Hamakua Springs in early 2004, the self-described “aggie” worked for the Hawai‘i Agriculture Research Center, and for the Research Corporation of the University of Hawai‘i, doing forestry research for both.

“I use all that research in the job now. For instance, with the tomato yield it was a lot of data collection, and out here in the lettuce it was how to set up little trials, spacing, how many seeds. We were doing a lot of Alan Wong research, trying to get all the lettuces the right size and shape for him, and how long it takes to the time of harvest, different times of year….”

She says Richard’s fun to work for because he “tries things that people don’t think can be done, mostly because they just haven’t been done before.”

“And he’s always trying new things and is open to new ideas,” she says. “He asks all of us, wherever we’re working. He’s always looking for feedback.”

She speaks highly of both Richard and June, who she says “approach things very business-like, but are very down to earth. For instance, all Richard cared about working with tomatoes is how they tasted, not the yields. And Kimo and Tracy, too. They are making very thought-out decisions, plans, and everything they do they have a reason for. You might not know what it is at first but after awhile you see it.”

“I like working for all of them,” she says. “I trust them.” Susie2_1

Richard speaks equally highly of Susie. “The thing that first got my attention,” he says, “was how Susie cared for her fellow workers, especially the ones who could possibly get overlooked because of not understanding the language as well as others. She was like a mother hen to all those workers and we appreciated that very much.”

He says he saw that she noticed if somebody—especially someone new, who didn’t know the routine yet—didn’t know it was break time.

“Or if there’s a meeting,” he says, “some of the new people might not feel comfortable and they’ll hang back. She’ll bring them to the middle and make them feel welcome. That’s what we want to do here at Hamakua Springs—take care of the most defenseless. And that’s what she does.”

Susie says her job has kept her “challenged beyond belief”—in a good way. “We went from six greenhouses of tomatoes to over 100,” she says. “Now I’m challenging my way back up over here in the lettuce. It’s kept me on my toes a hundred percent. This job just turned out to be the dream job I never knew it would be.”

“I love it,” she says. “I’m having a ball.” — posted by Leslie Lang